Tips about Paris with Kids:
Paris is one of the most stroller-unfriendly cities in the world (2nd to Amundsen-Scott Research Station on the South Pole). The sidewalks are narrow and cobblestoned, the people will bump into your stroller and not think twice, or flick ashes into it. Strollers are also hard to fit on the subway, and they are not allowed at many popular tourist attractions causing you to have to carry it. We are not suggesting that you leave your travel stroller at home. Just make sure to bring one that collapses easily and think about bringing along a carrier if you have a toddler.
Snacks and meals are sometimes hard to come by and with time changing kids it can be close to impossible to find something to eat. Paris fruit markets are plentiful and can be a good solution for a healthy snack. Stock up on fresh fruit at a fruit stand in case one of the kids needs a food fix while you are in an unfamiliar neighborhood.
Highchairs are few and far between. When sitting at a Brasserie or café be prepared to sit your little ones on your lap.
Tips for Americans:
Don’t take it personally, they hate the British, too. And the reason is Presumption. Every day, English-speaking tourists come to France, and for some reason, insist on addressing the French in a foreign language. Imagine how you would feel if a bunch of Germans got annoyed at you when you didn’t know what they were talking about. Then multiply that by a billion. Here’s what I do: In French, with as good an accent as I can muster, I say “Do you speak English? Because my French really isn’t very good.” And then keep trying to speak French. They’ll appreciate it, and will honestly be more interested in helping you. You have to remember that you’re the a**hole, here, not them.
Also, for iPhone users, download the following apps: Metro Paris and Smart Maps Paris. Both offer online and offline functionality, which means you can find what street you are on or what train you should connect to without having to worry about 3G or 4G or whatever wi-fi network you were depending on. The former allows route planning as well as isolating individual Metro and RER lines (as well as the bus if you’re feeling brave). The latter has a zoom function like Google Maps, bus and metro stops, and a searchable street index. Want to not feel like a tourist? These will help byteloads…That’s right, I said “byteloads.” If there was an app that notified you when someone told a terrible joke on planet Earth, there would be a little red pin blinking in Switzerland.
Where to Stay:
Despite Rodney’s loud objections and concerns of being thrown into human trafficking (he had just watched Taken, so…), it is quite common for the French to rent out their apartments in the summer while they are away on holiday. We found our apartment on Craigslist.com for 70 Euro a night, beating any hotel or B&B in Paris with a stick. We had a kitchen, laundry, and 2 bedrooms all to ourselves but best of all, we really felt like locals. It gave us the space we needed and the experience we wanted for a great price.
Here are other links for rentals in Paris:
What Not To Miss:
Stuffed Animals at Deyrolle
Not the stuffed animals that you are thinking of however, Deyrolle is the most spectacularly awesome taxidermy shop ever. Downstairs it looks like a Provencal gardening boutique. Don’t be fooled. Just smile, ask to leave your stroller downstairs, and head on up. As you ascend the stairs a Rhino head will greet you and you'll be welcomed to the most expansive collection of animals that we have ever seen. The kids loved it.
Deyrolle 46 Rue de Bac, 75007 Paris
Luxembourg Gardens Playground
Like most of Paris’ hundreds of parks, Luxembourg has free wi-fi, grassy areas for kids to run around, and a baby play park in the Northeast corner. Near the Marrionette Theater is another play park for older kids that has a bathroom and Paris’ first cup of coffee emporter (to go). Our girls loved the play park here with it’s large sand boxes and spinning objects that kids just don’t get to play on in the United States.
Luxembourg Gardens is located is the 6 ème Arrondisement.
Jardin Des Plantes (Garden of Plants)
Like the Natural History Museum of Botany. They’ve recreated some of the world’s most diverse environments, each with its own indigenous plant life. And if your kid is a nerd, well, a little Science never hurt anyone.
The Jardin Des Plantes is located in the 5ème Arrondissement of Paris
The Doll Museum
The Paris Doll Museum is a tiny, weird, out of the way type of diversion. But enjoyable nonetheless. It houses some of the strangest antique dolls we've ever seen, as well as a number of new, Agent Provocateur inspired type Barbies.
Impasse Berthaud (near 22 rue Beaubourg), 75003 Paris
On the roof of this shopping center is an artistic eating area and outdoor art exhibit. When we were there, the theme was Alice in Wonderland with a big checkerboard boardwalk and funhouse mirrors. A nice little diversion from an otherwise crowded neighborhood.
South of rue Montorgueil in the 1er Arrondissement
Run Screaming From:
Open any book on Paris and flip to the "Must See" section. Then, immediately cross all of those destinations off of your itinerary. In July and August, showing up even a 1/2 hour after opening can mean another hour waiting on line. And from what we saw, buying tickets on the Internet didn't improve this situation in the slightest.
The Eiffel Tower and Notre Dame (in our opinion) are just as beautiful from the outside. If you MUST see the inside of Notre Dame, go before it opens, then spend the better part of the morning at Luxembourg Gardens (and check out rue Vavin while you're over there) to make up for the pre-petit-dejeuner suffering. The top of the Eiffel Tower was just too much trouble for the view. Go see Sacre Coeur. Same view, good food, no lines.
As for Versailles, Le Grand Palais, Musee D'Orsay, and The Louvre...Skip Versailles. It's really too, too crowded to enjoy. Even at opening. Same goes for Le Grand Palais, which houses the longest line on the planet as part of its permanent collection. D'Orsay is beautiful, but if you're only in town for a few days, you really should see the Louvre.
So if you do decide to go to the Louvre, go before opening. Once inside, catch a quick photo of the Nike of Samothrace on your way La Joconde, then speed directly over to the Venus de Milo. After that, go enjoy the rest of the museum. There's a lot more to discover away from the crowds. Like this guy, who was still trying to get a picture of the Tomb of Phillippe Pot.
